Author Topic: o-ring vs non o-ring  (Read 350 times)

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Offline ddawg619

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o-ring vs non o-ring
« on: April 18, 2017, 01:15:48 PM »
 I've been running an O-ring chain since I built my bike a few years ago . the bike has been lowered and the chain has always ground into primary cover / starter boss a little bit. Not to fond of the plastic deal that you can snap over that area.  I was thinking about going with a standard chain as to get a little more clearance . Do O-ring chains make for a smoother roll on the drive train?
     Thanks

Offline 76shuvlinoff

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Re: o-ring vs non o-ring
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2017, 06:31:34 PM »
O ring chains hold the lube in, means less maintenance. I wipe my down a couple times a season with a WD40 soaked rag and hit it with an aerosol chain wax.  The spring loaded idler in the photo below was purchased off ebay and has been tucked in a there for better than 25,000 miles. That's probably twice as long as I expected it to last and it's still going strong. It keeps the chain snug and off the starter drive housing without over tightening. I immediately felt less vibes in the floorboards upon installation. YMMV

The price has better than doubled since I bought it so it's kind'a salty now.


 - Mark

« Last Edit: April 18, 2017, 06:37:58 PM by 76shuvlinoff »
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Offline 76shuvlinoff

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Re: o-ring vs non o-ring
« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2017, 03:01:44 AM »
Got to thinking. Do you know the tooth count on your transmission output sprocket? I run a 23 and it can get snug in there but if you keep it adjusted it's o.k. This is where an idler helps in case you're not right on top of it all the time. There has been some self clearancing over the years but I figure it's only going to clearance so much and it's done as long as I keep an eye on the chain.

Some guys have a 24T sprocket. I don't know how that would work with an O ring chain.

 When you adjust the chain tension have some weight on the bike. I don't have any exhaust on the left side so it's pretty easy to reach down there from the seat and feel the slack.

edit to add:
Shame on me but I skipped right over the fact your bike has been lowered. Yes this can be problematic. I slammed my 76 for a while but brought it back up. Still not stock height now but it was too low, I was always grinding aluminum with the chain and steel in the curves.
« Last Edit: April 19, 2017, 03:06:30 AM by 76shuvlinoff »
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Offline ddawg619

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Re: o-ring vs non o-ring
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2017, 10:36:18 AM »
 Hi Mark the tooth count is 24. I thought about going to a 22 and changing the rear sprocket as well . the transmission is a Rev Tech 4 speed not sure what that will do to 1st gear? cant remember what the ratio is off hand .  I thought about raising the bike up but its a aftermarket frame with 2" up in the front tubes and 34 degree rake. if I got longer rear shocks I think I would have to get longer fork tubes so the bike would set level that may be the way to go. right now I only have about 2" from the frame to ground. Only scrapes once in a while on turns  Anyway  I think I can buy a little space with a standard chain and now ill try the chain tensioner.   

Offline david lee

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Re: o-ring vs non o-ring
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2017, 03:29:23 PM »
i run a o ring chain with no problem but i run a 22t trans-49t rear.i did read somewhere that a 24t trans sprocket will cause your problem.why do you run a 24

Offline david lee

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Re: o-ring vs non o-ring
« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2017, 03:31:15 PM »
what size rear do you run

Offline david lee

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Re: o-ring vs non o-ring
« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2017, 03:32:58 PM »
whats your rear size

Offline ddawg619

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Re: o-ring vs non o-ring
« Reply #7 on: April 20, 2017, 09:40:42 AM »
the rear is 51. The 24 came with the 4 speed  RevTech Tranny. Some at a shop once told me that a 22 would affect 1st gear and make lug.   

Offline 76shuvlinoff

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Re: o-ring vs non o-ring
« Reply #8 on: April 20, 2017, 10:37:00 AM »
ddawg
I run an FLH with a 93" mill.  The motor sprocket is 24 then the clutch shell is 37, trans is 23 and wheel is 48.  From what I have read 23 and 48 is fairly common if your motor is modified for a bit more torque. 

I also run an RT trans but it's a 5 inna 4 speed case so I have a tweener gear in there somewhere. 

There are online gear ratio calculators by Baker? Nightrider? where you can enter your numbers to see where you're at then play around with them. I will try to find one and post a link.

 Mark

edit to add: See if this works for you  http://www.nightrider.com/biketech//calc_gearratios.htm
Being defenseless does not make you more safe.

Offline ddawg619

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Re: o-ring vs non o-ring
« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2017, 01:05:51 AM »
Thanks Mark I will check it out.

     Scott

Offline Burnout

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Re: o-ring vs non o-ring
« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2017, 08:28:56 PM »
A non-Oring chain will just cut a narrower slot in the bottom of the starter housing and inner primary.

The 2 chain types have the same outside dimensions with the Oring chain being a touch wider.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

Offline ddawg619

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Re: o-ring vs non o-ring
« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2017, 08:52:10 PM »
Thanks Burnout I will go a different route.